Twelve dispatches on the city: safety, neighborhoods, food, the Sierra, the water question, the language. The questions visitors ask, answered conditionally, the way a local would.

The data is unambiguous. Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, Washington, Atlanta, and Houston all post higher homicide rates than the parts of Monterrey you will actually visit.

Three days covers the city. Five lets you see the Sierra. Seven gives you the region. Anything less is a tease.

A hot, semi-arid valley with a short window of perfect weather. The season you come in shapes the trip more than anything else.

Flying, driving from Texas, the bus from CDMX. Each route has a hidden best practice that the airlines and the maps will not tell you.

San Pedro is the default, but San Pedro is large. Here is how to choose the right block within it, and when to skip San Pedro entirely.

The wealth has a date, an address, and a labor force. The city was built by people who worked twelve-hour shifts — the families capitalized what came after.

Cabrito, machacado, frijoles charros, the carne asada as a social form. Northern Mexican cooking is the cleanest, most ingredient-driven cuisine in the country.

Cola de Caballo, La Huasteca, Grutas de García, Saltillo, Real de Catorce. The city is also a base for the region.

San Pedro is not the same as Garza García, which is not the same as San Pedro Garza García. Here is what each colonia name actually means.

The Clásico Regio is the closest thing this city has to a civic event. Which team you support is more than a sports preference.

The wealthiest city in Mexico ran out of water in 2022. Here is what happened, what it looks like now, and what it means for a visitor.

Northern Mexican Spanish is closer to Texan-Spanish than to the Spanish of Mexico City. A short vocabulary that will make you legible at the table.